ACE: Aquatic Flora, Fauna and other General Information

[moy1moy1]

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Fauna #12 : Neon Tetra



Common Name: Neon Tetra
Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
Local Name: Neon Tetra, rainbow fish
Origin: southeastern Colombia, eastern Peru, and western Brazil
Life Span:
Temperament: Peaceful, Docile
Tank Compatibility Issue (for both Flora and Fauna): Peaceful fishes, several aquatic plants
Freshwater/Brackish/Marine: Freshwater
Water pH: 5.0 – 7.0
Water Hardness: soft,acidic water
Schooling/Non-schooling: Schooling
Common Illness/Problems:Ich, Fungi ,Bullying, Predation, Stress and polluted tank.
Unfortunately, neon tetras are occasionally afflicted by the so-called "Neon Tetra Disease" (NTD) or Pleistophora, a sporozoan disease caused by Pleistophora hyphessobryconis. Despite being a well-known condition, it is currently incurable and often fatal to the fish.
The disease cycle begins when microsporidian parasite spores enter the fish after it consumes infected material such as the bodies of a dead fish, or live food such as tubifex, which may serve as intermediate hosts. The disease is most likely to be passed on from newly acquired fish, which have not been quarantined.There is also a disease known as “false Neon Tetra disease” that is often confused with true Neon Tetra disease. This disease is not caused by a sporozoan; it is caused by bacteria. The symptoms are however very similar and unless you have access to a laboratory it will be virtually impossible for you to tell the difference between the two diseases.
Growth: fast, depends on diet
Length/Size:3 cm (1.25 in)
Difficulty: Easy to Medium
Water Current/Movement Issues:Given the origins of the neon tetra, namely blackwater rivers whose chemistry is characterised by an acidic pH, low mineral content and the presence of humic acids, the species is adaptable to a wide range of conditions in captivity, though deviation from the soft, acidic water chemistry of their native range will impact severely upon breeding and fecundity.
Description: Just like the other tetra species, the Neon tetra has a spindle shaped body and a blunt nose. A glistering blue line runs along each side of the body, from the nose and all the way to the adipose fin. The Neon tetra is also decorated with a red stripe that runs from the middle of the body to the base of the caudal fin. The side over the blue stripe is of a dark olive green shade. The belly is of a silvery colour and the anal fin is nearly transparent.
During the night, when the fish is resting in a sheltered place, the sparkling colours will be turned off and the fish will look dim. If you quickly turn on the lights in the aquarium after a longer period of complete darkness, you might not notice your Neon Tetras at first. If the colouration continues to be dull even after some time in the light, your tetras might be ill or stressed. You might also be keeping them on an inadequate diet.
The Neon Tetra is often mixed up with the Cardinal Tetra, since they both feature striking red and blue stripes. The Cardinal Tetra is even sometimes referred to as “Red Neon Tetra” in everyday language, even though it is in fact a separate species and not a colour variation of the Neon Tetra. Distinguishing these two species from each other is however not difficult at all if you know what to look for. Under the sparkling blue stripe, you will see a red lateral stripe in both species. If this red strip ends roughly halfway from the nose of the fish, you are looking at a Neon Tetra. If the striping instead continuous much longer, you are looking at a Cardinal Tetra. The name Cardinal Tetra is derived from the long, red robes worn by cardinals and these robes do not end half-way.

Other Important Information:
The male is slender, and the blue line is straighter. The female is rounder, producing a bent blue line. Some say that the females look plumper when viewed from above but this is disputed. However, the 'straightness' of the line and the plumpness of the female might occasionally be due to the eggs she is carrying.
To breed Neon Tetras, place a pair of the species in a breeding tank without any light, and gradually increase the lighting until spawning occurs. Other inducers include mosquito larvae and a hardness of less than 4 degrees. Some also recommend letting the level of nitrates rise, then do at least 50% water change to simulate the fresh rain the tetras get in their natural habitat, the Amazon. It is recommended that everything you place in the aquarium be sterilized, as well as the aquarium top. Because the adults will often eat newly-hatched fry, it is best to remove them as soon as the eggs have been laid. The eggs are especially sensitive to light. Eggs will hatch within 24 hours of the laying. Fry can be fed rotifers, especially infusoria and egg yolk for 1 to 4 weeks, followed by nauplii of brine shrimp, shaved cattle liver, and formulated diets. Fry will achieve their adult coloration at approximately one month of age. Adults can spawn every two weeks.Neon tetras are omnivores and will accept most flake foods, but should also have some small foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex, which can be stuck to the side of your aquarium, and micro pellet food to supplement their diet. A tropical sinking pellet is ideal as most brands of these include natural color enhancers that really bring out the color in neon tetras.Captive bred Neon Tetras are often adapted to conditions that differ a lot from those found in the original Neon Tetra habitat. Wild Neon Tetras inhabit very soft and slightly acidic waters in tropical regions of South America where the water temperature usually stays between 20 and 26° C (68 and 80° F). Rainforest rivers and streams are frequently replenished by soft downpour and frequent water changes are therefore recommended in the aquarium.
References :
Neon tetra - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Neon tetra image by pctt38 on Photobucket
Neon Tetra
neon tetra - Hanapin sa Google

[moy1moy1]

Fauna #13 : German Blue Ram Cichlid



Common Name: German Blue Ram
Scientific Name: Microgeophagus ramirezi, Apistogramma Ramerzii
Local Name: German Blue Ram , Blue Ram, Ram cichlid,Ramirez's cichlid,butterfly cichlid
Origin: freshwater fish endemic to the Orinoco River basin, in the savannahs of Venezuela and Colombia in South America.
Life Span: 3 years or longer
Temperament: Shy and timid, Passive, Aggresive towards male of their kind and also territorial during breeding season.
Tank Compatibility Issue (for both Flora and Fauna): As with other cichlids, hiding places should be provided with decorations, plants etc. for shelter when there is aggression especially during the breeding period. The species is innately shy and is best kept with passive dither fish, such as neon or cardinal tetras.
Freshwater/Brackish/Marine: Freshwater
Water pH: pH 5.5 - 7.0
Water Hardness: soft
Schooling/Non-schooling: Non-schooling (although juveniles tend to do so)
Common Illness/Problems:Bullying, Aggression, Stress and polluted tank.
Growth: fast, depends on diet
Length/Size: 2 - 3 inches (5 - 7.5cm)
Difficulty: Medium
Water Current/Movement Issues:
Description: The German blue ram or otherwise commonly known as the butterfly cichlid is another of the beautiful dwarf cichlids often desired by the aquarist. This is a stocky fish with bright grey/blue flanks. Yellow, gold and black with blue are the coloration of the head and chest with a red patch on the belly. A black vertical line runs across the eye and red patch around it. It has a large yellow dorsal fin with black at the front edge and red marking the upper and lower lobes of the tail and dorsal fin. The pelvic fins are mostly red with blue.
Other Important Information:
Once sexually mature, the species forms monogamous pairs prior to spawning. The species is known to lay its small 0.9 - 1.5 mm, adhesive eggs on flattened stones or directly into small depressions dug in the gravel. Like many cichlids, M. ramirezi practices biparental brood care with both the male and the female playing roles in egg-tending and territorial defense. Typical clutch size for the species is 150-300 eggs,though larger clutches up to 500 have been reported. Parental M. ramirezi have been observed to fan water over their eggs which hatch in 40 hours at 29 ºC (84.2 ºF). The larvae are not free-swimming for 5 days after which they are escorted by the male or the female in dense school for foraging. The ram cichlid is a popular cichlid for the tropical freshwater, community aquarium although it is not necessarily the easiest cichlid to maintain in many situations. This is because the species is often kept with other fish that are more assertive, aggressive or overly active. The species will readily exhibit breeding behaviours in water of pH 5.0-6.5, though softer water encourages more regular spawning. It is easier to maintain the species in larger aquaria as the species is intolerant of common aquarium pollutants such as nitrate.The aquarium should be decorated to mimic the natural environment and is best decorated with several densely planted regions of aquatic plants, separated by open water. The species is prone to filial cannibalism of its brood if distressed. As the water must be free of pollutants, aquarium filtration is important, though water movement should not be extreme. Removing and replacing small amounts of water changes assists with minimising the quantities of these pollutants and should be conducted regularly.
Numerous strains of M. ramirezi have been developed in Asia for the fishkeeping hobby. These include numerous xanthistic forms, known as gold rams, along with larger, high-bodied and long-finned varieties. Many of these varieties suffer from lower fertility, health problems or reduced brood care in comparison to wild-type specimens.

References :
Blue ram image by fishownergk on Photobucket
Ram cichlid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
German Blue Ram Cichlid

[Allister]

Fauna #14: Zebra Nerite Snail

Common Name: Zebra Nerite Snail
Scientific Name: Neritina natalensis sp. "Zebra"
Local Name: Nerite Snail, Bongka (Mindanao), Ongka (Dumaguete)
Origin: South Africa, can also be found in the Philippines
Life Span: calcium supplement needed
Temperament: Peaceful, Docile
Tank Compatibility Issue (for both Flora and Fauna): No harm
Freshwater/Brackish/Marine: Freshwater/Brackish/Marine
Water pH:
Water Hardness:
Schooling/Non-schooling: Non-schooling
Common Illness/Problems:
Growth: very slow
Length/Size: 1"-1 1/2"
Difficulty: easy
Water Current/Movement Issues:
General Information:
The Zebra Nerite Snail is typically black and gold, or sometimes a gold-lime coloration. The coloration pattern is not a swirl but rather the color extends in lines from the very back tip of the snail. The Zebra Nerite Snail is one of the most popular, if not the most, due to this beautiful coloration and pattern.

Feeding:
Another plus for the Zebra Nerite Snail is its algae eating abilities. This snail will clean your tank glass spotless and also clean algae off of rocks and even leaves. Many hobbyists purchase the Zebra Nerite Snail more because of its algae eating abilities than its visual looks. It is recommended that you supplement their diet with algae wafers or similar type food since the Tracked Nerite Snail may not be able to sustain itself solely on algae in the tank. This species is also larger than other nerite snails and will not be able to successfully eat algae off of small leaves due to its weight.

Behavior:
The Zebra Nerite Snail can tend to escape from a tank and make its way outside of the tank. It is considered a tidal snail and can live outside of water. Simply pick them up and put them back inside of the tank, they will survive as long as they have not been out of the tank for too long. It is recommend to keep an eye on them and look around the tank occasionally for possible escapes. It is thought that when the snail is uncomfortable it will escape, but will not when happy. It is also an extremely docile creature and does not bother any other aquarium inhabitants.

References :
Zebra Nerite Snail .:. Neritina natalensis sp. "Zebra" .:. Freshwater Aquarium Snail Information Page
Zebra Nerite Snail info
Zebra Nerite - Snail @ petfish.net

[moy1moy1]

Fauna #15: Flowerhorn cichlid



Common Name: Flowerhorn cichlid
Scientific Name:Cichlasoma Trimaculatus, Cichlasoma Festae (either because these breeds are "man made" similar to blood parrots)
Local Name: Flowerhorn, red devil cichlid,Zhen Zhu,King Kamfa,Luo Han,IndoMalau,Tan King,Golden Monkey
Origin: Malaysia, China, Taiwan; Stocks are from either Malaysia or South America, Introduced in South-east Asian Countries as Hybrid Stocks; unknown origin
Life Span:
Temperament: Aggresive
Tank Compatibility Issue (for both Flora and Fauna): The tank should be decorated in typical Cichlid fashion, providing open swimming areas as well as caves and driftwood for hiding. Plastic plants are best as they will dig. They are very aggressive in nature. Coexisting with other fish is not advisable, especially smaller fish. Some parties have claimed that we can "play" with the Flower Horn. In actual fact, Flower Horn is actually trying to get rid of the "intruder" (be it a stick or a person's hand). Therefore, it is advisable that we keep our hands to ourselves as the fish has quite a nasty bite depending on the size of the fish.
Freshwater/Brackish/Marine: Freshwater
Water pH: pH 7 to pH 7.8
Water Hardness: Soft to medium. dH range: 6.0 - 25.0
Schooling/Non-schooling: Non-schooling
Common Illness/Problems:
Growth: Moderate
Length/Size: Up to 12" (30cm)
Difficulty: Medium - Hard
Water Current/Movement Issues:
Description:
Flowerhorn cichlids are ornamental aquarium fish noted for their vivid colors and the distinctively shaped heads for which they are named. Their head protuberance, or kok, is formally termed a "nuchal hump." Like blood parrot cichlids, they are man-made hybrids that do not exist in nature. First developed in Malaysia and Taiwan, they are now kept by fish hobbyists worldwide. Some critics have questioned the impact of flowerhorn breeding programs. The Flowerhorn Cichlid is a great fish for those who are looking for a unique and large cichlid. They are very interested in their environment and those who purchase them fall in love. Purchasing a juvenile for a particular look is risky though, as they haven't yet developed their adult coloration. If you are looking for a specific pattern make sure you buy an adult, or buy several juveniles and hope one looks like what you want as an adult. But even obtaining just one juvenile, you can still end up with a beautiful fish. However,Flowerhorns have been criticized by some cichlid hobbyists and environmentalists for a number of reasons. Interest in flowerhorns resulted in surplus stock, some of which was dumped in the wild in Malaysia, where they survived and disrupted riverine ecosystems.Criticism has also been made of placing flowerhorns, which are man-made fish, into fish taxa, which are reserved for the identification of species found in nature. This practice can make identification of similar cichlids difficult. Breeding with pure bloodlines of cichlid species has already occurred in a number of cichlids commonly kept in the hobby, risking loss of genetic material. Flowerhorn breeding also contributes to the commercial demand for new and different fish, possibly leading to questionable practices, such as breeding for anatomical deformities, as occurred in goldfish breeding.
Other Important Information:
Sexing the flower horn can be attempted the following way: The most accurate way is look at the anal pore of the fish. The male fish has a V-shaped anal pore. As for the female, it will have a U - shaped anal pore. Generally, it will be easier to identify the *** of the fish when it is around 4 inches in length. Breeding should be typical of any of the large parent stock like Cichlasoma Trimaculatus or Cichlasoma Festae. As many as 1000 eggs are usually laid on a flat surface like a piece of slate or sometimes on rocks on the tank bottom. The eggs are guarded by the female and the male will keep all others away. The eggs will hatch in about 3 days and then the fry will be moved to large pits in the substrate where the parents will continue their care. After about 5 days the fry are free swimming and can be fed the small food needed for growth. The Flowerhorn Cichlid is best kept singly as a show fish. This fish is not a community cichlid, it is territorial and aggressive. Even your hands are fair game and its bite can hurt. It can only be kept with other fish if the tank is very large, 200 gallons or more. Keeping other fish out of its 'line of sight' will help to lower aggression, so decorate in a way that provides natural borders for its territory.
Flowerhorn Breeding Tree

Flowerhorn Breeds:

Golden Monkey

Kamfa

Zhen zhou

Golden Base (Faders)

King Kamfa

Kamfamalau

Hua Lou han

Indomalau

Tan-king
Color/Pattern Strains:
Coronation Link
Tornado Effect
Perfect Harmony
Unique Track
Absolute Wonder
Ancient Warship
Creative Measure
Exotic Marvel
Legacy
Living Legend
Pacific Miracle
Quantum Grace
Rising Rainbow
Royal Degree
Scarlet Passion

References :
Flowerhorn cichlid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Flowerhorn Cichlid, Hua Luo Han, Hybrid
Flower Horn Fish or Hua Luo Han cichlid Profile, with care, maintenance requirements and breeding information for your tropical fish

[gaevwa]

Hi moy1moy1 or anyone.

I need somebody to search these fauna:

Otto (Otoncinclus affinis)
Local ghost shrimps
Rummynose tetra (Hemigrammus rhodostomus)
Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus siamensis)
Red-Tailed Black Shark (Epalzeorhynchus bicolor)

and also these flora:

Echinoduros rubin
Eleocharis parvula
Limnophila 'guinea' or 'broad leaf'
Limnophila aquatica
Limnophila aromatica
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis
Ludwigia ovalis
Ludwigia inclinata
Ludwidgia repens
Myriophyllum tuberculatum
Hemianthus micranthemoides
Hygrophila sp. "Thai Stricta"
Hydrotriche hottoniiflora
Rotala sp. mini type 2
Rotala macrandra
Rotala goias
Rotala sp. 'araguaia'
Proserpinaca palustris
Neseae sp.
Nymphaea lotus 'Zenkeri'

Unsay scientific name aning medusa? i-apil nalang sad..pls..

Thanks to all sa inyo natabang and pwedi pa matabang..hehehe...

[moy1moy1]

Fauna #16 : Golden Oto Catfish



Common Name: Golden Oto Catfish
Scientific Name: Macrotocinclus affinis, formerly Otocinclus affinis
Local Name: Dwarf Sucker Mouth Catfish, algae eater, slime fish
Origin: Southeast Brazil
Life Span:
Temperament: Peaceful, Bothersome to slimy fish
Tank Compatibility Issue (for both Flora and Fauna): Any peaceful fishes. Heavily planted tank with plenty of algae to eat and lots of places to hide.
Freshwater/Brackish/Marine: Freshwater
Water pH: pH 5.5 - 7.0
Water Hardness: soft, slightly acidic
Schooling/Non-schooling: Non-schooling
Common Illness/Problems:Starvation due to lack of green foods, acclimitisation must be done very carefully.
Growth: fast, depends on diet
Length/Size: around 4 cm (1.6 in) in length
Difficulty: Easy
Water Current/Movement Issues:
Description: Generally more active at night specific species of Otocinclus are hard to differentiate but the requirements and behavoiur is all much the same. They make a good miniture algae eater for a planted tank although will not tackle major outbreaks of algae. Must be kept in a shoal and they require very good filtration. Most species of Otos don't grow much over 3cm and prefer soft water.They'll rest on stuff (propped on their front fins, not quite touching the surface) and at times you'll even wonder if they're alive. They can just rest and do nothing, not even sucking the surface or anything.
Other Important Information:
They need a really regular food intake. Some can be condemned if they dont' get food in as little as 12 hours. Always leave food out for them if you're low on algae. They need a lot of algae, so do consider setting up an 'algae farm' outside in your garden, or close to a window. All it is is a clean fishbowl covered with a clear top (to let the light through on top as well), and you put a couple of (clean) glass jars in there to grow algae on. When your jars are covered in algae, you can drop them in the tank. After a while, you can rotate your algae-covered jars from outside with your algae-cleaned jars from inside. They're not averse to the odd algae wafer, although this shouldn't be their staple diet. In case they dont eat it, put it in a bowl inside the tank (not a plate, or it might fall in the substrate anyway). That way, if they don't eat the wafer after 24h, you can easily find and remove it (uneaten algae wafers can easily pollute the tank, sometimes causing nasty nitrate spikes).


References :
Caresheet for otos
Macrotocinclus affinis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Otocinclus affinis image by SEMARA1 on Photobucket
Fishkeeping - Caresheets - Dwarf Suckermouth Catfish (Otos,) - Otocinclus

Fauna #17 : Siamese algae eater



Common Name: Siamese algae eater
Scientific Name: Crossocheilus siamensis
Local Name: Siamese algae eater, algae eater, often mistaken as flying fox
Origin: mainland Southeast Asia that includes the Chao Phraya and Mekong basins as well as the Malay Peninsula
Life Span:
Temperament: Peaceful
Tank Compatibility Issue (for both Flora and Fauna): Any peaceful fishes. Heavily planted tank with plenty of algae to eat and lots of places to hide.
Freshwater/Brackish/Marine: Freshwater
Water pH: pH range of 6.5-8.0
Water Hardness: water hardness of 5-20 dH
Schooling/Non-schooling: Non-schooling
Common Illness/Problems:Starvation due to lack of green foods, acclimitisation must be done very carefully.
Growth: fast, depends on diet
Length/Size: about 14 cm
Difficulty: Easy
Water Current/Movement Issues:
Description: The Siamese algae eater (Epalzeorhynchos siamensis or Crossocheilus siamensis) has a black horizontal stripe extending from opercle to tail. The genuine Epalzeorhynchos siamensis alias Crossocheilus siamensis without maxillary barbels and with deeply fringed V-shaped upper lip is rarely encountered in the aquarium trade.The Siamese Algae Eater is generally considered to be the best all-around algae eater available to aquarists. Unfortunately it is easily confused with other similar species (usually "False Siamensis" Epalzeorhynchus sp.), and is often mislabeled in stores. Most of the fish I've seen in Canada sold under the name "Siamese Algae Eater" are really Epalzeorhynchus sp. A relatively peaceful fish, especially when young, it can become agressive to its own species as it ages, and its quick, darting movements can stress out some more sensitive fish, such as dwarf cichlids or discus. A very hardy fish, it is easy to keep and feed, eating both algae and just about anything else put into the tank, such as flake food, pellets, live foods, parboiled vegetables, etc. It does a diligent job of removing algae from plants without harming them, as well as from decorations and aquarium glass. Considered by this aquarist as a necessity in any well-planted aquarium. Cover the tank carefully however, as these fish are strong jumpers.
Other Important Information:
Closely related is the Red-algae eater Crossocheilus langei, a species that is widely sold as the Siamese algae eater. It has a bright brownish elongate body with a slightly flat belly. It has a prominent brown-black horizontal stripe extending from nose to tail. This fish may grow up to the length of 16 centimeters. It possesses small maxillary barbels and an unfringed shallowly arcuate upper lip. Two other similar species are traded as Siamese algae eaters, namely Crossocheilus atrilimes, a species that likes to eat Java moss rather than red algae, and an undescribed species of Crossocheilus. Right now you are bound to think “Does it really matter if I get the true Siamese algae eater or the false one?”. The answer is that it very well might. The false Siamese algae eater is not as good an algae eater as the true one and more importantly is more aggressive towards other fish species than the Siamese algae eater. It is therefore much less suitable for a community aquarium with friendly fish.


References :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siamese_algae_eater
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/alga...ol/siamese.php
http://media.photobucket.com/image/s...8_SA1.jpg?o=26
http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_sae.php

[0ptimusPrim3]

Flora #62: Rotala Macranda



Common Name: Rotala Macranda
Scientific Name: Rotala Macranda
Local Name: Macranda
Origin: Southeast Asia
Native to Philippines (Y/N): N
Light Level: Mid to Very High
CO2 Requirement (Y/N): Y
Fertilizer Requirement (Y/N): Y
Life Span:
Freshwater/Brackish/Marine: Freshwater
Water pH: 5 - 7
Water Hardness: very soft to medium
Common Illness/Problems:
Growth: fast
Length/Size: 25-55 cm.
Difficulty: Medium
Tank Position: Mid-ground, Background
Water Current/Movement Issues:
General Description:
Rotala macrandra is an unusually beautiful aquarium plant, but unfortunately it is very demanding. It needs very good light to develop its beautiful red colour, and CO2 addition and soft water are vital to ensure reasonable growth. It is most beautiful in groups, but do not plant individual shoots too close because this will prevent light reaching the lower leaves. To ensure good colour there must be sufficient micro-nutrients in the water.

Other Important Information:

References:
Tropica
Ang mga resulta ng Google para sa http://www.bitkiliakvaryum.com/UserFiles/Rotala_macrandra.jpg

[coolnerd]

Common Name: Rummy-nose tetra

Scientific Name: Hemigrammus rhodostomus

Local Name: Rummy-nose tetra

Origin: South America, lower Amazon River basin and Orinoco River basin.

Life Span: Lifespan for the rummy-nose tetra in the aquarium is usually 5 to 6 years with careful maintenance. Exceptional specimens can live for more than 8 years.

Temperament: Peaceful Company

Water pH: pH 6.4-7.0 preferred, for maintenance purposes, the pH of the aquarium water can range from 5.6 to 7.4.

Water Hardness: soft, acidic water

Schooling/Non-schooling: schooling

Common Illness/Problems: Water quality should be monitored closely as these fish are somewhat sensitive to PH and hardness. Loss of the distinctive red on their noses is a sure sign of poor water quality.

Growth: fast, depends on diet

Length/Size: around 5 cm (2 in) in length

Difficulty: Medium

Water Current/Movement Issues: Water quality should be monitored closely as these fish are somewhat sensitive to PH and hardness. Loss of the distinctive red on their noses is a sure sign of poor water quality.

Other Important Information: The fish is interesting in that it can act as a "mine canary" in an aquarium, alerting the aquarist to potential pollution problems in an aquarium. When levels of certain metabolic wastes (ammonia, nitrites and nitrates) exceed critical levels, the intense ruby-red colour of the fish's facial area becomes pale. The fishes also become pale in appearance immediately after the disturbance that takes place in the aquarium following a water change, but in this instance, once clean water has been supplied, the intense deep red colour returns. Persistent paleness of the head is to be taken as a sign that water chemistry parameters in the maintenance aquarium are in need of adjustment, and that pollutant levels are becoming dangerous for the inhabitants.

Reference :
Rummy-nose tetra - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Fishkeeping - Caresheets - Rummy Nose Tetra (Common Rummy Nose, False Rummy Nose, True Rummy Nose) - Hemigrammus rhodostomus, Petitella georgia, Hemigrammus bleheri

[plockie]

Otto (Otoncinclus affinis):
The Otto originates from southeastern Brazil. It is also known as the Golden Otocinclus, the Dwarf Suckermouth, the Pygmy Suckermouth and the Midget Suckermouth Catfish. The scientific species names for the Otto include Otocinclus affinis and Otocinclus vittatus. The body shape and coloring are similar to a Flying Fox and a Chinese Algae Eater. There is a dark, black mottled band running from its head into its tail fin. Below the banding it is silvery white. Above the banding it is brown in a mottled pattern. Water conditions should be very clean.
The Otto is the perfect algae eater. It eats soft algae exclusively, so make sure a food supply is established in the tank before an Otto is introduced. It will clean algae off of plants without harming the plant. It also will clean algae off of plastic plants and glass. Ottos are seldom active in a tank, but they are always entertaining to find. They will stick themselves to the glass in any direction. They will stick to plant stems and the underside of leaves. Occasionally they will swim across the tank to take up a new resting or eating position. Ottos won't harm other species and the only concern is that some larger, aggressive fish, such as cichlids, will eat them.
Although the literature indicates they should be kept in groups of three or more, I had a lone Otto for years and "Norbert" was always a source of pleasure and a challenge to find. "He" went through lots of tank mates without paying any attention to them and was impervious to disease. Best of all, he loved algae all his life!
Differentiating the sexes of Ottos and breeding them is very difficult.


Local ghost shrimps:
Ghost shrimp are a very suitable name for this species which is totally transparent. They walk on the bottom and plants collecting small food particles which they then eat. You can se the food in their stomach after they have eaten it. Their feeding habit make them great cleaners that can help keep an aquarium clean.

Ghost shrimp are somewhat aggressive towards other Ghost shrimp and the large shrimp can become very aggressive toward small shrimps if too many shrimps are kept together in the same aquarium. So what is to many shrimps?

A suitable amount of shrimp is no more than 1 shrimp per gallon / 4 L of water. It is recommendable to keep them in lower concentration in aquariums smaller than 10 gallon/ 40 L.

They can grow to 1.5 inch / 4 cm (the males seldom reach more than 1 inch / 2.5 cm) and become up to two years old. They moults into new exoskeletons every few months as they grow. They are very vulnerable the first time after moulting before their new exoskeletons harden. It is therefore important to provide your Ghost shrimp numerous hiding places.

Suitable companions for ghost shrimps include small Livebearers, small Tetras, Rasboras, small Danios and other fish that are small enough not to eat the ghost shrimp. Avoid keeping them with very aggressive fish.

Ghost shrimp are best kept in an aquarium with a water temperature of 65-82 F / 18-28 C. Decorate the aquarium with a lot of hiding places that are too small for other fish to get in it. One way to create such hiding places is to put small flower pots upside down on the bottom. You can in most other aspects decorate your aquarium according to your own preferences or according to the demands of the other fish in the aquarium. Plants are not necessary but I personally think it is more beautiful if the Ghost Shrimp have plants to climb on. Make sure that all the decoration is none contaminated.

Ghost Shrimp are scavengers and will accept just about any small food they find while they scan the bottom for food. They sometimes also swim upside down and eat food from the surface. Ghost shrimp are very easy to feed and will do well on a diet of flake food. It is however good to offer them some variation in their diet and for example offer them some frozen food once in a while.

Ghost shrimp are easily bred in aquarium but the fry is very hard to raise. You will se female ghost shrimp with pink eggs or baby shrimp under their bellies. The fry is however hard to feed since it is very hard to offer them food that are small enough. Feeding them infusoria can sometimes be successful. Ghost shrimp are better and more easily breed and raised in ponds where there exist a lot of food for the young shrimp. Adding a few females and one or two males in a pond usually results in a lot of shrimps in a couple of months.

Ghost shrimp are a great addition to any aquarium with small enough fish for the shrimp to be safe from being eaten and are great little helpers in keeping your aquarium clean and your water quality high.

Rummynose tetra (Hemigrammus rhodostomus):
Striking elongated silver body with a black, yellow and white barred tail and the tip of the nose back to the eyes is coloured a vivid red, giving the fish it's common name. Looks very similar to the Hemigrammus bleheri and the two may be marketed under the same common name, the H. bleheri is slightly smaller in size. It is also different from H. bleheri as the red colouration on H. rhodostomus does not extend past the gill plate, whereas it does on H. bleheri.

Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus siamensis):
The Siamese Algae Eater is generally considered to be the best all-around algae eater available to aquarists. Unfortunately it is easily confused with other similar species (usually "False Siamensis" Epalzeorhynchus sp.), and is often mislabeled in stores. Most of the fish I've seen in Canada sold under the name "Siamese Algae Eater" are really Epalzeorhynchus sp. A relatively peaceful fish, especially when young, it can become agressive to its own species as it ages, and its quick, darting movements can stress out some more sensitive fish, such as dwarf cichlids or discus. A very hardy fish, it is easy to keep and feed, eating both algae and just about anything else put into the tank, such as flake food, pellets, live foods, parboiled vegetables, etc. It does a diligent job of removing algae from plants without harming them, as well as from decorations and aquarium glass. Considered by this aquarist as a necessity in any well-planted aquarium. Cover the tank carefully however, as these fish are strong jumpers.

Red-Tailed Black Shark (Epalzeorhynchus bicolor):
Red-tailed Black Sharks are known for their deep black color and the vividly colored tails. Their tail colors come in several colors with bright red and orange being the most common. When two Red-tailed Sharks are cohabitated together, they have been known to become territorial with one another. The dominant shark will continually chase and harass the submissive shark, preventing it from feeding and resting. This will often result in the death of submissive Red-tailed Shark. However, they are generally considered compatible in community tanks, inter-species conflict being relatively rare.
In home aquaria, Red-tailed Black Sharks prefer a pH between 6.8 and 7.5, a temperature between 72 °F and 79 °F (22°C and 26°C)
Red-tailed Black Sharks can reach a length of 6 in (15 cm), and can live up to the age of 8 years.

[plockie]

Echinodorus 'Rubin' is a decorative hybrid between Echinodorus horemanii ''rot'' and Echinodorus x barthii. The transparent, ruby-red leaves with light leaf ribs provide a particularly intensive sheen. An undemanding plant whose growth is stimulated by CO2 addition and a nutritious bottom. A good solitary plant for large aquariums.


Limnophila aquatica:
Limnophila aquatica, known commonly as the Giant Ambulia, is a plant belonging to the family Plantaginaceae. Limnophila aquatica grows naturally in Asia, Sri Lanka and India and is characterised by its fine leaves and bushy, pine-like appearance. It grows best in medium or very high lighting, preferably in acidic soil. It can grow to a height of 25-50 centimetres, and its width can vary from 9-15 centimetres.

Limnophila aromatica:
The extremely polymorphic (variable) species Limnophila aromatica can be found growing in swampy or boggy soil in its native region of southeastern Asia. It is a relative newcomer to the aquarium hobby, as it has only recently been imported. The plant widely in cultivation in the U.S. as 'Gratiola officinalis' is really L. aromatica. This species is gradually becoming more commonly available, and can presently be purchased through a few online aquatic plant retailers. It can also be obtained easily though hobbyists who maintain it.

Light is the most important aspect of successful culture with L. aromatica, though its nutrient and carbon needs should not be underestimated. CO2 supplementation is all but necessary, as is frequent fertilization with nitrate, phosphate, and micronutrients. Iron is especially important for good coloration and growth. A rich substrate will accelerate growth, as this species often develops a substantial root system. Nitrate limitation or phosphate excess usually produces the most pleasing colors. Like Ludwigia glandulosa, however, growth is often slower than the hobbyist would like, even under good conditions. Emersed culture is possible and is easy, and can be accomplished on a wet substrate of loam or an equally rich medium. Plants that reach the top of the aquarium will often begin to form emersed foliage. In Vietnam, the leaves of this species are used as a spice and are also infused with water to make an aromatic herbal tea.

The 'topping' method is the easiest and most productive way to propagate this species, though seed culture on wet loam is not impossible. The hobbyist should be careful to plant the individual shoots so that they do not shade one another. The continual topping of stems in the substrate will render the shoots of this plant bushier, as multiple growth tips will develop from the originating stem.

With its amazing coloration, L. aromatica is most effective in the aquascape as a focal point. It shows up particularly well against a dark background or against species with small, bright, light green leaves. Against a backdrop of Vallisneria spp., this species is extremely effective and appealing, especially if it is well maintained.

Lilaeopsis brasiliensis:
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis has been in the hobby for years as one of the few plants commonly available for the foreground. It is produced by all the major nurseries of the world and can be obtained through most any local fish store that stocks live plants. In its native habitat of Brazil, L. brasiliensis can often be found growing along the shores of streams in both emersed and submersed states. Despite its common name 'Brazilian micro sword', this grass-like plant is more closely related to the genera Limnobium and Hydrocotyle.

L. brasiliensis is not too difficult to grow, given enough light and CO2 supplementation. This hardy species will even grow in dim lighting. However, it will form dense, beautiful foreground lawns only when supplied with bright, unobstructed light (3wpg or more). A rich substrate encourages faster, taller growth --so it may be more desirable to have a lean substrate, depending on the size and height of the aquarium. As with most all plants, this species benefits from the regular addition of nitrate, phosphate, potassium, and micronutrients through the water column.

This herbaceous plant grows along a long rhizome in a somewhat similar fashion to Hydrocotyle verticellata, except that the leaves are grass-like and grow in more densely. To create a micro sword lawn, insert small bunches of this plant in a checkerboard pattern across the substrate. In a few months, the plants will grow in and form a shaggy carpet. As this plant is very invasive, runners that grow into neighboring plant groupings will need to be regularly pruned off. These clippings can be used for propagation in other tanks if desired.

L. brasiliensis, due to its low stature, is an excellent grassy foreground alternative to the more common Eleocharis spp. (hairgrass) and Echinodorus tenellus. It can also be used to provide vertical accents in Glossotigma and Riccia lawns.

Ludwigia ovalis:
Ludwiga ovalis is a relatively new species in the aquatic plant hobby. This Asian native is steadily gaining in popularity within the U.S. due to its relative ease of culture and its beautifully pink-orange, ovate foliage. In its native habitat, it can be found growing in slightly cooler bodies of water or creeping on very moist or wet soil.

L. ovalis is a low-growing stem plant with alternate leaves, a characteristic shared by only one other commonly cultured species in the Ludwigia genus�L. glandulosa. Though they tend to grow at a slight angle, the stems of this species generally develop vertically, and new shoots often stem from the nodes. A medium to high level of light is sufficient for good growth, and the limitation of nitrate and/or phosphorus fertilization in the water column will bring out a more intense coloration. Though CO2 supplementation is not entirely necessary, the stems of L. ovalis definitely appreciate it and will respond to it with more rapid and robust growth. Micronutrient fertilization is necessary, and iron is of importance for good color. Emersed culture is difficult and requires high humidity and very high light values (sunlight is recommended).

The aquarist may carry out the propagation of L. ovalis by either pruning off and replanting any side shoots or topping the plant and replanting the trimmed shoot.

L. ovalis is a unique and preferable addition to any aquascape, as most other reasonably accessible pink-orange plants are significantly more difficult to cultivate. This said, the low-growing stems of this Ludwigia are well-suited to the middle to front zones of the aquarium, where they should be backlit by other species of a light green color to form a striking contrast.

Ludwigia inclinata:
Ludwigia inclinata is an extremely variable plant from Central and South America. It can be found growing emersed in marshes or submersed in fast-moving waters. Due to its exacting requirements and rapid growth in the aquarium, this species of Ludwigia is neither as popular nor as available as others from its genus.

Though its growth in the aquarium is distinctly hurried, the hobbyist keeping this plant will soon realize that this behavior is due to the fact that L. inclinata is among the aquarium plants which need the most light. Stems of this species can easily reach the surface of a 24 inch-tall aquarium in under a week (if the water column is fertilized regularly), where they will continue to grow beneath the surface, forming many lateral shoots. The plant will then have little interest in forming shoots further down its length and should be trimmed. Obligatory CO2 injection should be considered by the hobbyist if he or she wishes to achieve aesthetically pleasing growth, since this species, if grown with low light or no CO2often will turn greenish and lose its lower leaves. Diligent micronutrient fertilization is a must, but moderate nitrogen and/or phosphorus supplementation will evoke a redder hue in new growth.

Propagation of L. inclinata is very easy, if the plant is achieving a good rate of growth. To accomplish a relatively bushier effect, the aquarist may remove the top portion of a stem, leaving the bottom portion in the substrate. New growth will soon appear on the nodes. The top portion of the stem may be replanted or discarded.

Though its quick growth in the aquarium renders L. inclinata somewhat limited in its possible applications to an aquascape, it is not impossible to utilize effectively. Its orange-red leaves lend a good distinction to the midground of an aquascape if backlit by a bushy green plant, particularly those which are lighter in color (i.e., Myriophyllum mattogrossense).

Ludwidgia repens:
Ludwigia repens is popular, beautiful and easy to grow stem plant that will thrive in most aquariums with the basics. The plant typically grows to a height of 12 to 20 inches. The width of each stem is about 2 to 3 inches, based on leaf growth.The leaves ae opposite is very variable and wide eliptic.
In order to achieve strong shoots the substrate should be nutrient rich and light intensity high. The red color is more intense if proper lighting is provided. Three to five strong specimens can be used for the mid to background area. Ludwigia repens can grow well in both very soft and hard water although soft, slightly acidic water is best. Optimum growth temperature is 75 to 79 degrees, although it can grow in temps from 59 to 79 degrees.
Ludwigia repens requires medium to high lighting (2 - 4 watts/gal) to do well. If kept in low-light tanks the leaves tend to fall off. Separate each stem and plant individually. This will result in better growth and the lower leaves will still receive some light as the this aquarium plant grows taller.

Myriophyllum tuberculatum:
Myriophyllum tuberculatum inhabits slow-flowing and stagnant bodies of water throughout the northern half of South America. It is not a very common plant in the United States. Most stores and websites offering this plant are actually offering a blander, red-brown species native to Florida. However, M. tuberculatum can be obtained through stores and sites which regularly import plants from the aquatic plant nurseries Oriental Aquariums and Tropica.

M. tuberculatum is a challenging plant to cultivate successfully within an aquarium. Intense lighting of 3 watts per gallon or more and CO2 are necessities if one hopes to have success with this Myriophyllum. Nitrates and phosphates should be dosed and kept at acceptable levels (5-15 ppm and 1-2 ppm respectively). Neither of these two macronutrients should ever be allowed to reach zero or stunting of the shoots will result. M. tuberculatum requires more iron and micronutrients than most other stem plants. Without sufficient micronutrients, the stems of this species will become very dark and small, and in cases of extreme deficiency, the death of the meristem will result. When conditions are to its liking, M. tuberculatum will attain a maximum diameter of four inches and will turn to a rusty red color.

Under good conditions, this milfoil grows up toward the surface rapidly, producing many side shoots and becoming very bushy. The pruning of this species is a matter of removing and replanting the more robust top portions, as the rooted portions of the stem are slow to throw out new growth. Propagation can be completed simply by plucking a side shoot from a main stem and replanting it in the substrate.

As with any reddish stem plant, this species is best used as a focal point or a colorful accent. When healthy, groupings of this species can make for a stunning, eye-catching fireball. It looks very beautiful when planted alongside green Myriophyllum and Limnophila spp.. It is also appropriate for small planted aquaria, due to its fine leaves and modest size.