All about woodworking

[waterboy0911]

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bai, ask lang ko unsay nindot na material para himuon cabinet? ganahan ko lig-on ug dili sad bug-at na klase na kahoy.

daghang salamat!!!

basta cabinet making.. we use marine plywood.. if dili ka nahan mahal.. pwede ra mag ordinary plywood ka..

daghan grades ang plywood.. now kadaghanan nato ngari sa cebu ang ato mga plywood are construction grade.. that means ang inyo faces kay bati ug hitsura.. other way to repair this is buy a layon veneer. naa na sila sa magellan veneering or sa phil veneer.. check lang sa directory for contact..

ayaw pag solid wood kung mag cabinet making kay pwerte na gyud mahala and bug.at gyud na..

[waterboy0911]

unsay kasagaran gamitong adhesive bay kung mga stone in-lay ka?

use a polyurethane adhessives bay..ask lang ani nila kung naa sila avialable

Hamburg Trading Corp. 2673427 / 2324445

sila ang best nako nga mahatag nga mo supply ug adhessives..

[waterboy0911]

salamat sa imu reply master waterboy!!!!
pila kaha ang hour bai?
asa dpit don bosco gani bai?
murag mauwaw man pud ko ui wa pako kasuwai... pero need man pud kaau nko gud.. ad2 jud ko!!

sa labangon..

sa pleasant homes. pangitaa lang si christopher neis.. kung mo babag ang guard ninyo.. igna lang nga adto mo sa woodworking.. ok ra na..

Don Bosco 2720974 igna lang connect mo sa woodworking and look for neis

[waterboy0911]

bro... kinsa na si jamili bro... bro curious lang ko br kung and wood naay annual growth ring how to determine the age of a coconut bro?...

hope you answer me bro....

actually bay naa na sa dahon.. kalimot ko pag compute but sa dahon na.. hehehe mga 2nd year nako ni nga subject pero wala kaayo nako g focus ug ayo.. heheh lisod ang mo gait ug indigenous materials..

but sure ko sa dahon na bay.. murag pangalan man guro ana nila spadix.. not sure but that is the idea..

[waterboy0911]

hello nga people ok ra mag apilapil ko ani ... dili ko kaayo knowledgeable about wood working but i love furniture... na lang koy mga doubt maybe you can help...ok ra ?

ok ra kaayo.. but bay sorry kaayo kung ma late ko ug reply ninyo.. hehehe busy boy pud ra ba ko..

and sahay lagi kani brown out.. wa sad internet sa bordinghouse sahay.. so please check lang sa thread always.. and I will always answer questions..

ma weird man o dili..

[waterboy0911]

nindot lagi ang gipang post nga table and chairs... i like it...

it's actually a college project.. sagol na noon na.. from 1st year to 3rd year na projects..

si jamili bro.. is someone I know sa donbosco.. He is really good in woodworking but less on theory.. he needed my help and dili ko maka facebook permi kay bawal man gud ngari.. and saturdays sahay ra sad ko maka laag sa woodworking. But willing kaayo ko mo help lalo na si jamili.. he helped me build my drafting table before.. hehehe so he was my mentor ones..

[waterboy0911]

Notes nako ni pag College this will help you understand About adhesives


Glue is that stuff you see in a conical jar with a brush stuck in the top and a big label with the words 'GLUE' on the outside. Usually in a classroom or an office. That idea of the material is where we should leave it because the stuff we use is Adhesive! But 'glue' is quite different from what we are going to use. However, we all use this term when we 'glue-up' and I shall not deny it either. No doubt I shall slip in and out of using the term too.
The current range of adhesives on the market is vast with adhesives available for nearly every application and material imaginable. We need to know about the adhesives available for the wood trades, the characteristics and uses.

Classification of Adhesives:

There are two main classes of adhesives: thermoplastic and thermosetting.

Thermoplastic sets either my loss of solvent or by cooling. It will soften again by applying the solvent to the glue line or by re-heating.

Thermosetting sets and solidifies through a chemical reaction and is irreversible.
Adhesives that set at room temperature are known as 'cold-setting' and those that require heating up to a temperature perhaps in the case of pearl glue 40 and others up to 100 degrees C are known as 'hot-setting'.

Types of Adhesives:

Animal
Known as scotch glue (yes glue!), pearl or hide glue. Made from the hides, hoofs and bones of animals. Available now in cake or more likely supplied in small beads. It is essential for restoration work, veneering and other applications where compatibility with original artefacts is needed. Used extensively in the musical instrument industries. It is for internal use only and has high gap filling properties.

Fish glue
is also available which is made out of fish offal and skins. Good for small repairs. Not recommended for structural work.

Casein.
Manufactured from soured, skimmed milk curbs which are dried and crushed into a powder form. General joinery and woodwork use. It may stain some hardwoods and oak is particularly prone to darken. To use the powder it is mixed with cold water into a smooth creamy paste. Developed in WW2 for the manufacture of the Mosquito plane which was largely made of fabricated plywood panels. Internal (INT) use only.


Modern synthetic resins.

•Phenol formaldehyde (PH)
~ used where great strength is required, durable and water resistant. An 'engineering adhesive' used for heavy structural work and quality plywood.
- Durability is WBP.

•Resorcinol formaldehyde (RF)
~ outstanding durability qualities under the severest weather conditions and used mainly for external construction work. Decorative work is not possible because it has a dark glue line.
- Durability is WBP.

•Urea formaldehyde (UF)
~Perhaps more familiar to the cabinet and woodworker under the trade name 'Humbrol Cascamite' now apparently called 'Extramite'. Used when a high quality but stable fix is required. Sets at normal room temperatures and is relatively cheap and available. Suitable for laminating, fabricating and veneering when large presses or good cramping facilities are available. It is pre-mixed to a smooth paste with cold water in a non-metallic container. Those little plastic water cups are fine.
- Durability is BR.

•Melamine formaldehyde (MF)
~ A more expensive adhesive usually used as an additive. Used in the production of hard decorative plastic laminates.
- MR

•Polyvinyl acetate (PVA). (White Glue)
A one part emulsion with high bond strength. It can be used on all woods, soft, hard, chipboards, plywood, etc. A good general purpose woodwork adhesive for indoor use only. There is an external quality made but I would not rate it greater than MR. - Evo Stick Resin W
- INT

•Aliphatic resin glues (Yellow Glue)
- Possible has an upper hand on PVA especially for the brown hardwoods. It provides a strong initial tack with fast setting to help reduce the clamping time. Offers excellent 'sand ability' and is unaffected by finishes. Titebond
- INT

•Polyurethane Glue
- A waterproof adhesive for multi-purpose applications. Ideal for metal, plastic, ceramics and other porous or non-porous materials. Although it foams up it does not expand or contract in the glue line.
- MR

Contact. ( natural and synthetic rubber)
- A rubber based adhesive supplied ready for use. Used for bonding plastic laminates, sheet flooring and other fabrics, etc. to wood or other materials. It is applied to both surfaces with a toothed spatula and allowed to dry to the touch. The two surfaces are then carefully brought together under pressure to remove any air bubbles. Immediate contact is obtained so accuracy is essential. In practice the laminate or fabric is 'rolled' on from the far edge with both surfaces held against a straight edge to provide a guide. There are some contact adhesives available that provide limited amount of adjustment. It should be used in a well ventilated workshop with no smoking or naked lights because the vapours are flammable and toxic. Internal use only. Evo Stick 528
- INT

Hot Melts - ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) was the original polymer
~ Heated in a gun or applicator with electronically controlled elements. The flow is controlled by a trigger. Not recommended for jointing because of the thick glue line that quickly goes off. Ideal for 'tacking' jobs such as upholstery, and packaging etc. specially smaller components. Some hot melt glue guns are powered by a gas cartridge that gives a hotter and thinner glue line. A warm atmosphere with warmed components increase the working time and a thinner glue line. Care must be taken to avoid the hot glue on hands and fingers. A very bad burn results - the author has first hand experience and scars to show.
- INT

Epoxy Resins
~ Two part epoxy resins when mixed together produces after curing an incredible bond on many different types of materials. The adhesive is mixed with equal proportions on a tile or card until it becomes a whitish stiff paste. A rapid version is obtainable that may cure after a 90 seconds bond. Applying heat, hot air or 'cooking' in an oven accelerates the process.

Cyanoacrylate Adhesives
~ or 'Super Glue' ~ used extensively throughout for repairing and manufacturing small objects. Not used in great quantities in the woodworking industry but very useful for repairing and 'tacking' small objects when strength and speed is required. Excellent for model making particularly the 'Zap' varieties. Requires a moisture to work.

How Adhesives work

•By loss of solvent ~ either evaporation of the solvent as in the case of contact adhesives or by the absorption into the timber in the case of emulsion (PVA) adhesives.

•By cooling. Adhesives applied in a molten condition solidify on cooling. This has the advantage of a very fast set. Animal and hot melt adhesives are good examples.

•By chemical reaction such as two part adhesives with a resin and a hardener or catalyst. Mixing the two together activates the adhesive. Synthetic resins, epoxy resins, Cascamite, etc are good examples. A good clean well measured mix is essential.

•Some adhesives set by a combination of one or more of these processes.

Durability grades.

WBP ~ Weather and Boil Proof
BR ~ Boil Resistance
MR ~ Moisture Resistance
INT ~ Internal only

Storage or Shelf life

Time able to be stored in original containers.
Pot life
Effective working time after mixed - depends on temperature.
Pressing or Cramping time
Minimum time glued surfaces should remain under pressure. or Curing or Assembly (closed) time
After application and contact with wood - usually in cramps - time depends on temperature. Heat including RF accelerates the time. Refer to manufacturers instructions.

Applying adhesives

The joint area must be clean, free from resin, oils, etc. It should be dry.
The joint should not be roughed or sand papered but prepared from the saw, chisel, plane etc. so that it fits well square and free from wind.
Adhesive should be applied to both surfaces with a brush, spatula or applicator taking care to 'wet' all surfaces of the joint area. Sufficient adhesive should be applied but not over spilled. Adhesive that 'bleeds' through the joint must be removed immediately and thoroughly with a wet cloth otherwise the adhesive will effect the staining and finishing coats. Some allow the overspill to 'gel' then remove it carefully with an old but sharp chisel. This practice may not be acceptable for quality finishing. The remedy is not to use to much adhesive in the first place.

Glue line.
The actual glue layer of the joint is called the 'glue line' and although it is essential to apply sufficient adhesive on both surfaces, care should be taken to keep this thin as possible ~ thicker glue lines weaken the joint and are unsightly.

Temperature.
Check the temperature range of the adhesive you are using and make sure the workshop is warm or cool enough for the process. Adhesives are responsive to temperature and the curing time may well be reduced by applying heat of some form.

[waterboy0911]

about Palm Trees ( I made my own research )


The coconut palm

Cocos nucifera L, the coconut palm, is an agricultural crop widely spread throughout the tropics. It has been cultivated by man for 4000 years. The main produce is copra, the dried kernel of the nut. Converted into oil, it becomes the base for a wide range of products, from cooking oil to soap and shoe polish.

Traditionally, coconut palms were found around hamlets in the tropics, in rather small stands to provide the villagers with basics such as:

- vegetable fat (from copra)

- roofing material (leaves)

- ropes and strings (coir from the husks)

- beverage (coconut juice)

- alcoholic drink (from the inflorescence - tuba or toddy)

- fuel (from the husks and nuts)

- timber (from the stem).

At the end of the last century, coconut palms were planted in larger plantations, especially in the Pacific and on the Philippines, Ceylon, East Africa and the Caribbean, for large-scale copra production. Presently, more than 10 million ha are worldwide under coconut palms. According to stem height, tall and dwarf varieties are distinguished. 45 tall and 18 dwarf varieties are known. All older plantations are planted with tall varieties. Once these palms are 50 – 60 years old the copra yield declines rapidly. When the plantation-grown palms reached this age in the 1960s, replanting programmes were developed and the question of economic removal and disposal of old palms arose.

Removal was necessary in order to make space for new plantations. If the material was left to rot, the rhinoceros beetle (Oryctes rhinoceros) would start to breed in the decaying material and attack the young seedlings. Subsequently, various coconut-growing countries started to investigate the economic disposal or use of the stem. The research activities started were partly funded and backed by the governments of New Zealand and the Philippines, as well as by the FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations). In Zamboanga, Philip-pines, a research station was established and the utilization of the coconut palm stem as a timber resource was assessed and proven.

Table 1: Palm stem data (at 60 years of age)

Diameter max. (butt) 30 cm
Diameter (top) 15 cm
Height about 20 m
Gross volume per stem 0.9 m3
with ca. 100 palms/ha 90 m3/ha
(Average values, dependent on age, site and variety.)

Properties of the palm stem

Although inappropriate, the term “coconut wood” has been established for the material of the coconut palm stem, and will therefore be used in this handbook as well. Unlike “conventional” trees, palms, like many other monocotyledons, have vascular fibre bundles (red-brown spots on a cross-section) scattered in a yellowish parenchymatic ground tissue. These bundles contain the water and nutrient transport system (xylem vessels and phloem) as well as thick-walled fibres giving the stem its strength, and paratracheal parenchymatic cells. The ground parenchyma has mainly a storage function and contains starch among other things. The anatomical features result in a rather non-homogenous distribution of physical properties both over cross-section and height, and thus in a very non-homogenous raw material. Principally, the density decreases towards the centre of the stem, and over stem height. Figure 1 gives a qualitative impression of the density distribution over the stem from five 80-year-old Philippine palms, Photo 1 shows its distribution (dark = high density) over a cross section.

Fig. 1: Schematic density distribution in mature coconut palm stem

Source: Killmann, 1983

Photo 1: Cross section of coconut palm stem at breast height


The actual distribution may differ in each palm according to variety, site, and age. However, due to the absence of rays, differences of properties in tangential and radial direction, as they exist in conventional timbers, are negligible. Oven-dry density ranges from 0.85 g/cm3 at the lower periphery to 0.11 g/cm3 in the pith at the top end. Initial moisture content, on the other hand, increases in the same directions, with lowest values at the bottom periphery (50 %) and highest (up to 400 %) in the stem centre at the top (Killmann, 1983).

Figure 2 shows the potential uses of different stem parts.

Fig. 2: Use of the coconut palm stem

Source: Jensen and Killmann, 1981
Depending on its oven-dry density, coconut wood can be segregated into three different groups (Figure 3):

High density timber (HD)

(> 0.6 g/cm3)

Timber from lower periphery of stem. Can be used for load-bearing structural purposes, framing, flooring, staircases, tool handles, furniture.

Medium density timber (MD)

(0.4 – 0.59 g/cm3)

Timber from upper stem periphery and lower middle section. Used for limited load-bearing structural purposes, furniture, wall-panelling, curios.

Low density timber (LD)

(< 0.4 g/cm3 )

Timber from core sections. Indoor use only, where no load is applied, e.g. wall-panelling.

Fig. 3: Cross section of coconut palm stem with density zones

Source:Sulc, 1984, 1
Only when palms are over 60 years of age (that is, when the copra yield declines, and they are of less interest to the farmer), is enough “wood” built up and therefore of use to the sawmiller. This implies that there is no conflict between the use of the palm for its primary production (oil and fat) and the later stem use for timber. On the contrary: the use of the timber generates a windfall profit to the farmer.

It also implies that only stems of tall varieties can be used for timber, not those of dwarf varieties.

The percentage of the various density groups per stem depends on variety, site, age, sweep of palm, human impact (harvesting step, Figure 4), and the extent of fungus and insect damage.

Fig. 4: Harvesting steps in coconut palm stem


With 80-year-old palms of the San Ramon Tall variety in Zamboanga a distribution of

High density 40 – 50 %
Medium density 20 – 30 %
Low density 20 – 30 %
was observed.

All mechanical properties which define the use of a timber are closely related to its density (weight/volume at given moisture content). This inhomogeneity influences the methods of processing as well as the uses for the coconut palm stem. Sulc (1983, 3) has assessed the mechanical properties for the different density groups (Table 2) of 80-year-old coconut palm stems from Mindanao, Philippines.

Table 2: Mechanical properties of coconut wood, 12 % mc

Table 2: Mechanical properties of coconut wood, 12 % mc

Basic density (g/cm3) 0.25 – 0.39 0.4 – 0.59 >0.6
Strength (MPa)
Modulus of elasticity 3633 7116 11414
Modulus of rupture 33 63 104
Compression parallel to grain 19 38 57
Shear n.a. 8 13
Source: Sulc, 1983, 3

Defects in palm stems

Coconut palms are attacked by insects (rhinoceros beetle, palm weevil), mycoplasma-like organisms, and fungi.

Insects usually attack the growing point of the palm, reduce its vitality and finally lead to its death. Rhinoceros beetle attack can easily be detected visually. It results in palm fronds being cut in a diamond-shape.

Mycoplasma-like organisms attack the phloem and clog it. They result in the final death of palms. The diseases are known as Lethal Yellowing and Cadang-Cadang.

Fungi usually attack the palm stem, when its vitality is diminshed due to insects or mycoplasma-like organisms, or after physical damage, be it through hurricanes, or due to human impact. While the other two agents have no direct impact on the timber quality, fungal attack does. Most commonly fungi find entrance into the stem through harvesting steps cut into the outer, hard portion of the stem in some countries in order to facilitate harvesting of the nuts (Figure 4). Rainwater and dirt collects in the wounds, and fungi (and later also insects like termites) find their way into the stem and feed on the parenchymatic tissue. The attack appears as brown spots on a cross cut or as a string spot on a longitudinal cut, where the parenchyma is gone and only the bundles remain intact. This attack reduces both the properties as well as the appearance of the timber.

Read More: Coconut palm stem processing: technical handbook








Figure 10.-Coconut tree and its parts. a, tree: 1, trunk (rakau); 2, base of trunk (tona); 3, roots (aka); 4, leaf (rou niu); 5, center keaves (tira). b, leaf parts: 1, midrib (takai niu); 2, leaflet (mata rou niu); 3, leaflet midrib (tuaniu). c, flower parts: 1,whole flower (karoro); 2, flower sheath (taume); 3, stalk of nut (pa karihi); 4, stalk of bunch (kauroro). d, mature fruit: 1, outer skin (kiri taha); 2, husk (puru); 3, shell (ipu); 4, flesh (kaniu); 5, fluid (nia wai, plural); 6, nut stalk (pa karihi);. e, growing nut (homo): 1, roots (aka); 2, leaf stipule (kaka); 3, leaf (rou homo); 4, central leaf (tira homo); 5, spongy interior (upu).

INTRODUCTION

All houses and canoes are lashed together with native cord, but foreign twine is used for fishing lines and some forms of nets. Cordage of native manufacture is in constant use, and its production is and everyday occupation of the men. The native fibers used are obtained from coconut husk (puru), the inner bark of the wild hibiscus (hau), breadfruit (kuru), and warenga, a member of the nettle family. Of these, cordage made from prepared coconut-husk fiber, or coir, is in general use, and it is doubtful that it would ever be satisfactorily replaced by trade cordage. Cordage of hau bast is used to a much less extent, and breadfruit bast cordage is rarely made now. Cords and threads of warenga are no longer made, but the people are able to demonstrate how the material should be prepared. For ordinary tying, strips of Hibiscus bast are used; for binding food packages for cooking, pandanus and green coconut leaflets serve.

COIR CORDAGE

The term coir is used here to denote the fibers in the husk surrounding the coconut shell. It further infers that the fibers have been treated to cleanse them of interfibrous material and so make them suitable for use in making cordage. The native terms used in connection with the material and the products are as follows:

Coconut husk: puru
Husk sections: akanga
Treated husk sections (coir): tukaha
Single fibers: moikaka
To roll on thigh (v.): (e) taka
A rolled strand: amu
Two-ply cord: tirahira
Three-ply cord: hari
Three-ply rope: hari
To use three plies (v.): (e) pini

TREATMENT OF HUSK

The husk fiber selected for cordage is obtained from green drinking nuts (rumata). Fiber from mature nuts (matu) is not used as it is held to be too old, hence less strong than that of the green nuts. This is in contradiction to the usage in Polynesia, where the mature husk is preferred. The husk sections (akanga), obtained by husking green nuts for drinking and culinary purposes, are collected in a coconut-leaf basket and soaked in the lagoon for a month or so. Usually a shallow place is scooped out at the bottom of knee-deep water, the husk segments laid in it and some sand scooped over them. Large coral stones are laid on top to mark the spot and prevent the segments from drifting away. When the craftsman requires fiber, he wades out to his soaking material.
At Touhou, there is a large pile of stones about 25 yards from the waterfront, and the husk sections being soaked nearby are usually taken to the pile where the waste material can be thrown into the water. Each segment, in turn, has the short inner fibers (purupuru) torn off and the outer skin (kiri taha) peeled off before it is washed in the water. The bunches of fiber, which are about 10.5 inches long, can be beaten at the stone pile or taken ashore.
I watched a man at Werua beating husk which he had just brought in from soaking. Each segment was twisted before beating to wring out the water. He used a short wooden beater shaped like a food pounder and a basaltic stone as an anvil. The Werua craftsman proceeded to beat (ta) each segment in turn on his stone anvil. Holding the segment by one end with the left hand, he beat the far end so that the fibers spread out in a thin layer. He worked up toward his grip and then folded the bunch lengthwise for further beating. He rinsed the bunch and beat the end he had previously held. The particles of interfibrous material flew off under the beating and gathered in a heap beside the stone. After being beaten, the pale yellow fiber had a fine silky appearance. Each beaten segment adhered together as individual bunches of fiber and they were stacked up at the side. Before adding a fresh bunch to the pile, the craftsman ran his hand along it and removed any short pieces which stuck out. The process of beating is termed ta ti tukaha.
It was noticeable that there was no bad odor to the interfibrous particles which were beaten out, whereas in Samoa, where I watched the process, the waste material had a vile smell. This was probably due to a certain amount of change occurring in the mature husk used in Samoa.
The beaten bunches are dried in the sun and form the tukaha which provides the good fibers for cordage. The dried tukaha is put away in a basket to await the next process.

ROLLING STRANDS
The preliminary step to making the cordage is the separating of the required amount of fiber from the tukaha bunch and rolling it into individual strands termed amu. As the general term for rolling on the bare thigh is taka, the process of rolling strands is termed taka ti amu. The craftsman sits cross-legged on the floor with the tukaha bunches beside him. Picking up a bunch with his left hand, he proceeds with the forefinger and thumb of his right hand to detach the quantity of fibers necessary to form the strands for the cord he is about to make. This varies with the thickness of the cord required, as different sizes are used for different purposes. For instance, the cord used inn fish traps and nets is much thinner than that used in lashing houses and canoes, whereas much thicker strands are required for ropes.
Having separated the fibers for a strand, the craftsman looks at it and removes any short pieces that are noticeable. If this makes the strand too thin, he adds more fibers from the bunch. He then proceeds to roll the fibers together on the bare right thigh with the palm of the right hand. The first preliminary roll is downward toward the kneecap, but more pressure is applied on a following upward roll, in which the left end of the strand is held in the left hand to insure the twisting of the fibers over each other. In the upward roll, the full width of the palm is utilized, first with the ulnar part over the right end of the strand, then a gradual transfer to the radial side of the palm over the left half of the strand. In this way, a tight, compact strand is formed. The completed strand is of even thickness, but the two ends thin off slightly, a matter of practical use when the strands are added to the plies of a cord. The craftsman continues to increase his pile of amu strands until he has enough for the next process.

TWISTING CORD
The two-ply cord is in general use in Kapingamarangi and Microcesia, rather than the three-ply braid generally used in Polynesia. The general term for two-ply cord is tirahira, but the plural is nia hirahira. It is evident that singular article ti has been fused in the general term tirhira. There is a strong distinction made both in technique and in the use of cord that is twisted on the right thigh and that which is twisted on the left. In referring to them, it is convenient to call them right-hand cord and left-hand cord.
In rolling the right-hand cord, the two prepared strands are held at one end with the left hand, and the downward and upward movements are made with the right palm on the bare right thigh. In the downward movement, commencing at the upper part of the thigh, the two strands, which now become plies, are kept apart and rolled separately. On the upward, return movement, the two plies are brought together and rolled over each other in a tight twist by the firm pressure of the outer or ulnar side of the palm. At the end of the movement, two to three inches of close twist are formed, with the ends to the right loosely twisted. Holding the right end of the firmly twisted part with the left hand, the craftsman unravels with his right hand the loosely twisted part on the right separating the plies, and another section is tightly twisted by the downward and upward rolling movements. When a ply approaches its end, a fresh strand is added to it by overlapping the two thinner ends which, when combined, make up the average thickness of the ply. And so, by adding fresh strands as required, the rolling of the cord continues until the desired length is reached. The term taka is applied to the rolling process for cord, as it is for strands.
Left-handed cord is rolled in exactly the same way, except that the ends of the strands are held with the right hand and the rolling is done with the left palm on the left thigh.

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN RIGHT- AND LEFT-HANDED CORD
In a right-handed cord, owing to the upward pressure of the right hand, the plies of the cord are twisted over each other obliquely from right to left; in left-hand cord, the reverse takes place in that the twists are from left to right. No matter which way the cord is held, the twists will always run in the same direction, and the differences between right and left cords can be distinguished at a glance. The use of the two cords has been arbitrarily decided, and it is wrong (hua aitu) to use a right-hand cord in canoe and house lashings and equally wrong to use a left-hand cord in making nets or fish traps.
According to native craftsmen, the right hand (kautonu) being stronger than the left (kauihara), the right-hand technique is employed to make firmer and tighter cords which stretch very little. The right-hand cord in general use is about 2 mm. thick and runs about 7.5 twists to the inch. The smaller right-cords are used in making fish nets, fish traps, and minor articles. They may be used to form the plied for the three-ply ropes termed hari. The number of twists may be counted by measuring off an inch with the calipers, placing the upper limb on the right of the cord just where a ply appears to twist over from the right edge to run obliquely down to the left. The left hand (kauihara) being weaker than the right, the left-handed technique is used to made coarser cord with looser twists which are also less in number per inch. The strands are thicker; an average piece of left-hand cord is about 3 mm. thick with 3.5 twists to the inch, or even fewer. These cords will readily stretch and are used for lashing the parts of houses and canoes. When a lashing turn is made, considerable pull is applied before the turn is held in position by pressure with the left thumb against the wood. The stretch, or elasticity, in the left-hand cord is said to make the lashings firmer than if the less elastic right-hand cord is used.
An interesting indication of the origin of the left-hand cord and its probable substitution for three-ply braid occurs in the terms applied to the two kinds of cord. The right-hand cord is termed tirahira henua nei (two-ply cord of this land) and the left-hand cord is termed, in contradistinction, tirahira mai tai (two-ply cord from the sea). Thus the descriptive terms imply that the right-hand cord was well-known and local, the left-hand cord introduced from abroad. On asking informants as to what was used for lashing housed and canoes before the left-hand twist was introduced, they admitted that it was possible that three-ply braid (pita kaha) was much more common in olden times than now. It is possible that the Polynesian people of Kapingamarangi formerly used three-ply braid in house and canoe lashings and that the left-hand cord was later introduced, probably from Micronesia, and adopted because it was equally effective and more easily and quickly made.
In cordage, the terms used for small and large, or thick, are tuwi and tuwe, whereas the terms applied to other objects are turi (small) and tamana (large).

source:kpg-C

[tunyo]

@waterboy di lge ka ma.PM bai, puno cguro imu inbox...

[waterboy0911]

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either puno ako inbox or puno imong sent items.. hehehe pero ako na g limpyohan..

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